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Working up the Alioth. Boat 2 First of all thank you to all those who have bought a coffee to support the web site for the long term future. This is not a commercial site and I make no profit from it but I do need support to ensure its longevity. People tell me that it is a great source of information and the only site of its kind, so if you do enjoy it and get value from it why not pop over to Buymeacoffee . It takes any currency. If you do thank you. If 10% of the 5000 plus visitors bought 1 coffee, I could do so much more with the site This is a story about going backwards to go forwards. Move from a well set up boat to one that had to be developed and optimised. I am not a designer so some of the steps could be seen as labourious but every stage was tested and each change offered improvement. Spoiler alert, the story is still ongoing. None of this would have been possible without the help of Paul Barton. He is probably one of the most experienced 3d printers of the Alioth in the UK and is a brilliant ideas man. Of course we would not be doing this had it not been for the creative thinking of Juan Egea. Not only has he come up with a great design but opened the door for home building once again and allowed IOM’s to become freely available to new owners (for a reasonable licence fee of course). At the MYA AGM last year, I had a chance to buy an Alioth. It was a completely standard boat, sprayed with clearcoat but un sanded, with an old Alioth fin and bulb. I thought what better way to rest the Britpop than to buy the Alioth and sail it over the winter with the Britpop rigs. When I started to sail it, I was hooked on the design but my boat setup had some issues. I sailed a bit with Craig Richards but he was months ahead of me and truth be told a better sailor. My boat needed to sail with the rigs at zero degrees rake for balance which meant the booms pointed upward and it all looked rather ugly. Having the boom band 150mm from the step meant the boom was too high. I also had a poor A rig with prebend that occurred mostly around the 600mm mark, more of a kink than a bend which was created with rollers. The end result was a poor performing boat. The first thing to do was to rake the fin aft 2 degrees so I could put some rake on the mast. Unfortunately this moves the bulb back over a centimetre so the transom dropped in the water. Then I lowered the boom band to just off the foredeck above the mast ram. I had to the rakethe fin a degree forward to get the fore and aft balance better and that resulted in weather helm which to be frank was slow. With the Britpop it was easy to power off upwind and drive hard. With my set up I had the opposite and every time I took my eye off the boat it slowed. Craig had moved his fin aft so he could rake the rigs and achieved a balanced boat and was quick from the start with his V3. Eventually after struggling at the the ranking event at Eastbourne, I bit the bullet and moved the fin leading edge rake to a full 2.5 degrees (the aft edge was dead perpendicular to the waterline and then I moved the bulb forward 1.5cm to achieve balance and keep the stern just out of the water. I was then able to test the following week and had a balanced boat with the bow and stern just out of the water. To measure things accurately (see the instruction at the bottom of the article), all you need is paper, pen and a right angled set square. Once you have the dimensions, it is easy to replicate on a new boat. The boat came with under deck sheeting which gave me some issues, tangles and restricted range of movement which took a while to sort. Since trying it out I would prefer on deck sheeting in another boat as you can see any wear on the sheet and quickly repair any fraying cord. Having sorted all of this I ended up with a boat on weight but a bulb 25gm lighter than my Britpop. So after 6 months I got the boat set up that I wanted it. Remember I am not a designer and have to work by trial and error. I also get nervous about moving things around although my confidence is building on this as my knowledge builds. In a way it is good to fiddle as you learn on the journey whereas sailing a setup boat with instruction is quick but ones learning is limited. So what to do next. We heard a rumour that Juan was going to release a file for a 2 piece boat which would make it lighter and stronger. After some gentle persuasion we got the file and printed the boat which I could put together just before the nationals. I wanted a Craig Smith fin which is the lightest available and a Robot bulb. I could not fit a Smith fin to the current boat as I had glued the fin insert for the Alioth fin into the fin box but it would fit nicely in the new boat with a customised insert and this would allow us to vary the rake from zero to 2 degrees. The only thing we lacked was time. Putting an untested boat on the water 3 days before the Nationals was fraught with risk and so it proved. Other things we did to the new boat were to fit on deck sheeting, put the pulley in the centre at the back of the boat to minimise drag in the water, move the shroud base in a few mm as the eyes had the potential to damage other boats when healed over and it would not hurt to bring the shroud base in a bit. As a consequence I shortened the spreaders on the A and B rig and modified the jib tack fitting on the boom so I can get the jibs booms as close to the deck as possible. Then it was a case of going over the boat and minimising windage as far as possible. There was a structural change. After Juan had cracked his boat near the shroud area having been hit by a Venti without a bow bumper at an event earlier this year, Paul changed the aluminium posts that provided triangulation strength at the mast and shroud area replacing them with wires so that if there was impact in this area, the boat could flex and not split although the Polymax is extremely robust. I have hit a piece hard with a hammer and seen no damage or even a mark for that matter. It was a race against time especially as we had a couple of issues with the gluing. While Paul was sorting the boat I went through my rigs and did everything I could to and make sure the setup was good. New Cunningham design, lower the bottle screws, get the booms as parallel to the deck as possible. One mistake I made was to try 80lb fishing line to attach the jib luff to the mast. Unfortunately, the bowsie kept slipping the day before the Nationals so I went back to my trusty thicker cord. I had put the same on the backstay and had to replace that as well. One of the challenges I had was running the sheeting system under the deck using PTFE tube bent through 180 degrees. The winch could not handle the friction but then it was suggested I apply silicon grease to the cord and that solved the problem. So I picked up the boat on the Saturday before the Nationals, with the biggest job, fitting the fin and bulb in the afternoon but I had my map/diagram laid out on the floor with the optimal positions from the previous boat so I could position the fin and bulb accurately knowing the boat would be balanced and with the fore and aft weight distribution correct. What I did not realise at the time was that the bulb cant to the waterline was at 2 degrees when hand fitted but when I secured it with the nut the bulb cant increases to nearly 4 degrees. I only realised this after the nationals. One little check would have shown me the issue with the bulb. One thing I was able to do was accurately measure the bottom of the bulb in relation to the waterline and calculated I would have a 2 mm gap in the tank. The on-deck sheeting was a pleasure to set up and worked well although the way I had set the winch up meant that you had to move the stick a long way to ease the sheet making precise adjustment upwind difficult. Also the mix for a high mode was not working properly. I did not have time to fix that. I did drop the shroud bottle screws to the deck to get them out of the slot and that meant fitting longer shrouds Also checked the mast was a firm fit where it entered hull at the deck and happy to say it is rock solid. One final tweak was to the transmitter rudder control. I have a habit of over steering just after the start so I have introduced 20% of exponential to the steering. I had a quick test sail on Monday to check the sailing balance and that the boat sat in the water correctly. The transom was just out of the water and the bow 25mm out. I had 200gm of correctors to play with which I would position when the boat was measured. The boat was measured in Gosport on the Tuesday. It was exactly 1m long and the bulb 2mm above the limit and the rudder just inside the perpendicular from the transom. I had got something right. We had time to precisely locate the corrector weights. Wednesday was spent practice sailing at Frensham and then Thursday I raced at Gosport. That is when I got concerned about speed. The boat was just not powering off the start line. Yes it was shifty but I was getting rolled by boats around me. Not much I could do but live with it and take it to the Nationals. On the Friday at Poole there was a decent breeze and this is where I learnt that 8mm was not enough prebend in the mast. The jib luff sagged, the leach opened too much and the result was a boat slightly off the pace. I could have increased the prebend for the weekend but if I snapped the mast I would be off home. Thankfully the forecast was for light winds. The first day of the nationals was difficult (a polite way of saying bloody frustrating). After the seeding race I was put in C heat and progressed to B the A and stayed in A for two more races. The things unfolded. I was demoted to B then C and took 3 attempts to get out of C and then two attempts to get from B back to A where I stayed for the rest of the regatta. In summary, I was getting great starts but lacked pace and dropped back into the fleet but once back in A fleet after my excursions was always able to find a way to stay there. The result from the Nationals was not what I wanted but I was going through a commissioning process, so 14th is OK. The boat was not as quick as I would like, and I was able to nail down the reasons why and quickly fix on Tuesday. So, what was the list of things to do after the Nationals On mast bend, 8mm of prebend proved to be too little to support a firm jib luff and leech when sailing upwind. I wanted to use the same mast but with more prebend without using my rollers. I have found with the rollers that you have to get the roller settings to a certain point before the mast bends permanently. It is very easy to get hard spots, so I thought it time to bend the mast by hand. Surprisingly it is not that difficult to achieve a smooth bend by bending the mast carefully around my middle. So my 8mm turned to 15mm over 600mm and I put a gentle reverse bend into the whole mast. Only a few mm. The result when rerigged was stunning. Complete control on the jib leech and the ability to set any bend I liked and no hard spots on the mast. I will not be using rollers again. I also discovered the bulb cant was nearly 4 degrees rather than the two I thought I had. I took the bolt off, and the hand fitted bulb was 2 degrees but what I had not realised was there was a high spot in the slot on the bulb and when the bolt was tightened the bulb rocked and increased the cant. I also need to increase the weight of the bulb by 15gms. There is a hole in the slot which I can fill with lead shot so should be able to get the bulb and fin to full weight. I fiddled and reprogrammed the winch, so I was able to have full control sheeting when sailing upwind. That also restored the mixing which gives me high mode. I will put a blog up on that later. Those three things alone will surely increase the performance of the boat. All this done, I am ready to test the improvements. The journey continues. 5 months to the worlds. How to measure fin and bulb position (see picture below) After a ranking event where the weather helm caused me issues, I ended up raking the fin 2.5 degrees and moved the bulb just over a centimetre forward. This required careful trimming of the slot in the bulb but with a Dremel you can do a neat job but how to get the bulb in the right place Take 2 A2 sheets of drawing paper and tape them together along the shortest edge. Lie this on a wooden floor and place the boat on it. Use the top side as the waterline. The bulb draft limit is 3mm below the bottom or the A2 sheet. Using a right-angle triangle or T square, put a mark on the water line of the boat at the bow at the point where the designer says the bow should kiss the water. Align the boats water line with the top edge of the paper marking the exact bow and stern position. If you do this right, you will be able to move the boat and relocate with precision. Once you have the waterline established, raise the fin so it is parallel to the floor (3 dvd boxes should do it) and recheck the boats position. Also it is worth checking at this stage that the boat is 1m long. Once the boat is in position, you can mark the four corners of the fin, then mark the tip and back point of the bulb so you can measure the cant. Each point is marked on the paper using the adjustable right-angled triangle which also allows me to measure precise angles. This Alioth design requires the bottom of the leading edge to be a certain distance from the bow by drawing that line with the fin in that position and marking the front point of the bulb is, I had my starting point for the bulb position. I then marked where the centre of gravity of the bulb should be so I can line up the C of G of my new bulb in the same place with a raked fin. When I changed to a bulb with a different length, I was able to position its centre of gravity with ease.

A directory of championship races from around the world Видео со всего мира 2021 г. Регата 5 Регата МОМ Корпус-Кристи, Техас, 27 февраля - 1 марта 2020 г. Чемпионат мира 2019, Бразилия Heat 6 Fleet A Heat 6 Fleet E Заезд 6, флот B Heat 8 Fleet A Heat 8 Fleet B Хит 9, флот А Заезд 9, флот B Заезд 14, флот А Заезд 17, флот А Хит 19, флот А Хит 19, флот B Heat 20 Fleet B Хит 22 Флот D Тепло 23, флот B Хит 24, флот А Национальный чемпионат Австралии 2019 День 1 2-я посевная гонка Гонка 4 Флот Гонка 2 Флот Гонка 10 Флот Гонка 5 Флот Флот Race 5 B Флот Race 3 B Гонка 13 Флот Регата Australia Sunshine Coast 2018 День 4. Гонка 1. Заезд 2. День 4. Гонка 1. Заезд 1 Флот Race 4 B Посев гонки 1 Посев гонки 2 Флот Race 2 B День 1 Race 3 D Fleet Чемпионат штата Квинсленд Гонка 2 Флот Флот Race 2 B Гонка 15 Флот Гонка 18 Флот 2017 open IOM Masters Holland КУБОК ЛЕЙПЦИГА 2017 2017 Австралийские граждане МОМ, Когара Бэй I OM Worlds 2015 Приемный город Последний день 2012 подданные Великобритании на 2 Island RYC День 1 Гонка 1 Флот 2011 Чемпионат мира Вест Кирби Гонка 18 Флот Race 23 A Fleet - блестящая состязательная гонка между Питером Столлери 39 и Брэдом Гибсоном 42 1 день День 2 3 день День 4 5 день 6 день Немного ностальгии

It is possible to have a Brand-New competitive IOM in 6 weeks for less than £1500? …. Really? By Malcolm Appleton Fact or fiction? I wanted to find out, because: Like it or not we live in the Amazon generation of click and collect. What permeated the souls of Gen Z over five years ago has, supercharged by the Covid shut downs leached its way into the consciousness of the Boomer Generation. That means for me, that prospect of waiting up 18 months for delivery of a competitive hull plus another month for final fitout (or earlier for the same price as a small car) has become unacceptably frustrating. And it carries the risk that I may not live long enough to see it to fruition. ☹ But is there a solution? … continuous development of both 3D printers, filament materials and the ready availability of powerful CAD systems, could a well-designed 3D printed hulls be the answer to the maiden’s prayer in drastically reducing lead times. So, I set myself the following objectives to: prove that it’s possible to enter the world of International One Metre sailing with a modern design performance boat and win races for twice the price of a similar spec’d DF95. i.e. ready to sail with A, B & C rigs. purchase of all components and have a finished ready to sail boat in a minimum of 4 weeks, or comfortably 6 weeks find out if it was possible to build a competitive boat in my study starting from a place of never having built a boat before (feel the fear and do it anyway) and with limited model making skills plus a determination to succeed. see how the boat performed in print finished form. Being lazy, i.e. not wanting to spend too much time sanding and painting the hull, I decided to research the subject of laminar flow extensively, and concluded that at the speeds a One Metre can achieve the benefit would be marginal, i.e a lot less than one badly timed tack. Did I fulfil them? Absolutely - and this is how I chose to build an Alioth V3 Alioth V3 - IOM ALIOTH | RC SAILING LAB on the basis that a friend at Emsworth where I sail, had already printed and built a V2 and found it to be well designed and reasonable fast. Bribed with a bottle of finest Malt, I persuaded him to print one for me, and being a bit impulsive bought the licences just as the design had moved on to Version 3. How lucky was I!. I built the 5-section hull and found it to perform well, but I always wanted a 3-section one with recessed jib pivots which I think look nicer. So, I contacted Paul Barton who was happy to take my money and print a 3 section for me in a couple of weeks. Both hulls were printed using the same Polymax PLA Tough filament which seems to be as good as its word. Temperature and speed control are important if you fancy printing your own, we found in the first endeavour one of the printed parts had suspect adhesion between the layers....not good, but rectified second time around. Taking a deep breath, I slotted the prepared hull sections together, and they lined up precisely. Giving me the confidence to repeat the procedure this time with glue added to the joints. When measured by Paul Edwards at Gosport the completed overall length was exactly 1 metre, and the fin and rudder lined up perfectly. Wow - this was a pleasant surprise since I did not use an assembly jig. It’s a testament to Juan Egea’s construction design. I did use a tripod mount cross laser (Amazon £26) for ensuring the Fin was at right angles to the fore/aft water line - although strictly speaking unnecessary as the designer’s measurements are more than adequate to achieve the same result. The laser was used because I could, (another toy for the cupboard) . My biggest challenge for the build was choosing the correct adhesives. For non-flexible joints I used an MMA adhesive, which is a powerful hybrid Epoxy/CA mix. For the hull joints which need to flex to absorb potential collisions I use CT1 which is silicone based. I figured using a hard adhesive in a potentially flexible environment wouldn’t be a smart thing to do. It seems to have worked – solid boat no leaks. The printed hull was sprayed with two coats Plasticoat clear gloss, oven dried at 24 degrees (not in our kitchen oven!). Very lightly sanded in between each coat. Initial surface prep consisted very quick light sanding with 240 grit wet and dry, afterwards simply 'washing the surface’ with Multi solve CT1 Multisolve Solvent for Removing Adhesives & Sealants (500ml) cleaner to remove surface dust and any grease. I used this to clean the joints as well and has proven its worth. The finished boat ready to sail required 130gms of ballast to bring it up to 4Kgs. 120gms of which I placed astride the keel box and the remainder positioned to trim the fore/aft attitude of the boat. Trimming was to the designer’s waterline specification, using the tank at Gosport. The bare hull was fitted out using a high power DF95 rudder servo, RMG J series winch, John Gill carbon rudder (a work of art and beauty) Dave Creed Fin and Bulb, SAILSetc spars and Sailboat RC one piece moulded sails. All the parts arrived within 3 weeks allowing me to complete the hull build in time for arrival of the sails which took just over 3 weeks to get to my doorstep for the equivalent UK sourced price. In use, the hull has proven to be tough, substantially stronger than that of my Kantun K2 the Polymax filament proving highly resistant to accidental collision damage. Without other distractions I calculate that the entire build would have taken me four weeks. To conclude: This project exceeded my expectations. I learnt masses about sail settings and boat balance. Ended up with a very competitive (race winning) club boat. Felt the fear and did it anyway – what could possibly go wrong? Mistakes are only costly in time, not £££ An excellent ‘value for money’ entry into One Metre sailing. The downside? Glue is smelly and best done in the garage Glueing the parts together can be scary using a quick cure (5 min) product Having to be disciplined enough to create to create time for family while building the boat. My thanks must go to those who helped and inspired me to see the project through to its best Chris Lawrence; Paul Barton; Nigel Barrow and Steve Taylor Cheers guys Author and image copyright: Malcolm Appleton January 2025

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Fitting the sails onto the rig Войти Setting sails on the rig A conversation with my brother the other day got me thinking about how the IOM rig should work. We both used to sail on dinghies and yachts. Mostly we would sail on fractional rig yachts where the bottom of the mast was controlled by the shrouds, spreaders and runners. The bend was fixed up to the hounds and you increased or decreased that bend, using the runner, however once set the mast was fairly rigid. The trick was to have the mast work for you above the hounds on the un-supported section of the fractional rig. The ideal scenario went like this. If you hit a gust the top of the mast head would bend, flattening the upper part of the mainsail and opening the leech so the boat could accelerate into the gust. As soon as the wind eased the mast would straighten and power was restored. We once sailed on a boat which had the balance of the rig exactly right. It meant you could carry more sail in greater breeze and gave a massive competitive advantage. The boat won a lot of key offshore and inshore races. However the IOM rig is between a fractional and a masthead rig on a yacht where the forestay and backstay meet at the top of the mast and the bend and therefore mainsail leech control is managed entirely through adjustment of the runners. Of course you have other adjustments on yachts which are important, eg mainsail foot, cunningham, etc, all of which have to be adjusted through the wind ranges, but in this article I am just focusing on mast bend and impact on the mainsail. The IOM rig is somewhere between a masthead and fractional rigged yacht. .Our forestay sits above the hounds with a backstay at the top of the mast. The geometry is set up so that with prebend build into the spar, straightened out by the backstay, tension is put into the luff and leech line of the headsail. The position of the jib swivel line to the deck ensures that most of that tension goes down the luff of the jib and not the leech line. Mast bend and therefore mainsail leech shape is controlled throughout the mast ram, spreader rake and tension on the backstay. Jib leech tension is controlled by the leech line. We want a rig setup that will give a little in puffs so the boat accelerates and drives, rather than heels and stall. So how can that be achieved. If you read all the key advice on rig setup, you tighten your shroud tension just enough to stop the leeward shroud going soft when upwind. This allows the mast to flex a little in puffs providing acceleration. If the mast is too rigid, airflow will stall and the boat will not accelerate in the puff. Start your boats setup with the boat pointing as though on a run. Trim the back stay so the mast is straight fore and aft. Set the mainsail foot to a depth of 15mm or whatever your sailplane suggests. Set up the kicker tension so the mainsail leech is slightly twisted with the top batten just outside parallel to the main boom. Check both gybes to make sure the mast is straight vertically. The twist should be the same on each gybe. Then point the boat as though on a beat. I assume you have set the rake as per the boat plan using a measuring stick or tape measure. Our goal is to set the mainsail so the top batten is parallel to the centreline of the boom by adjusting the backstay and mast ram. Once set up there should be little need for change through the wind ranges other than 1mm tweaks on the backstay. In a recent zoom meeting with Brad Gibson for the Central Park MYG in the US, Brad talked about adjusting the backstay by plus or minus 2mm. I don't know about you, but in the past I was slightly more aggressive about the use of the backstay. Now I understand more about the precision of the setup and know what the top guys do, I am more careful. With any luck if you have done all this you will have a perfect looking rig, and if you have not overdone the shroud tension, the rig will work for you in the gusts. There is enough information available on rig setup up on the web, that you should be able to achieve the right setting first time and more important, recreate that setting every time you go sailing. Here are some pictures to show the impact of 1 mm changes on the B rig backstay. Start from the bottom Установка парусов на буровую установку Разговор с моим братом на днях заставил меня задуматься о том, как должна работать установка IOM. Мы оба ходили на лодках и яхтах. В основном мы ходили на яхтах с частичным оснащением, где нижняя часть мачты контролировалась вант, спредерами и полозьями. Изгиб был прикреплен к бороздам, и вы увеличили или уменьшили этот изгиб, используя бегунок, однако после установки мачта была довольно жесткой. Хитрость заключалась в том, чтобы мачта работала на вас над собаками на неподдерживаемой секции дробеструйной установки. Идеальный сценарий выглядел так. Если вы столкнетесь с порывом ветра, вершина мачты изогнется, уплощая верхнюю часть грота и раскрыв пиявку, чтобы лодка могла ускориться при порыве. Как только ветер утихает, мачта выпрямляется, и питание восстанавливается. Однажды мы плыли на лодке, у которой была точная балансировка оснастки. Это означало, что вы могли нести больше парусов при более сильном ветру, и давало огромное конкурентное преимущество. Лодка выиграла множество ключевых морских и прибрежных гонок. Однако оснастка IOM находится между дробным и мачтовым снаряжением на яхте, где форштаг и ахтерштаг встречаются в верхней части мачты и изгиба, и, следовательно, управление шкворнем грота полностью осуществляется за счет регулировки полозьев. Конечно, у вас есть и другие важные настройки на яхтах, например, опора грота, каннингем и т. Д., Все из которых должны регулироваться в зависимости от диапазона ветра, но в этой статье я сосредоточусь только на изгибе мачты и ударе на грот. Буровая установка IOM находится где-то между мачтой и яхтой с частичным такелажем. .Наш форштаг находится над гончими с подпоркой в верхней части мачты. Геометрия настроена таким образом, что с предварительным изгибом, встроенным в лонжерон, выпрямленным ахтерштагом, усиливается передняя и задняя шкаторины переднего паруса. Положение линии поворота гуська по отношению к палубе гарантирует, что большая часть этого натяжения идет вниз по передней шкаторине гуська, а не по линии задней оси. Изгиб мачты и, как следствие, форма задней шкаторины грота контролируются с помощью гидроцилиндра мачты, наклона спредера и натяжения ахтерштага. Натяжение пиявки гуська контролируется линией пиявки. Нам нужна установка, которая будет немного давать толчки на затяжках, чтобы лодка ускорялась и двигалась, а не кренилась и сваливалась. Так как же этого достичь? Если вы прочитали все основные советы по настройке буровой установки, вы увеличиваете натяжение кожуха ровно настолько, чтобы он не стал мягким при движении против ветра. Это позволяет мачте немного прогибаться при затяжках, обеспечивая ускорение. Если мачта слишком жесткая, поток воздуха остановится, и лодка не будет ускоряться в затяжке. Начните настройку лодки с лодки, направленной так, как будто она бежит. Обрежьте спинной упор так, чтобы мачта стояла прямо вперед и назад. Установите опору грота на глубину 15 мм или на то, что предлагает ваш планер. Отрегулируйте натяжение кикера так, чтобы кулиса грота слегка скручивалась, а верхняя рейка располагалась снаружи параллельно основной стреле. Проверьте оба выступа, чтобы убедиться, что мачта стоит прямо по вертикали. Поворот должен быть одинаковым на каждом повороте. Затем направьте лодку, как будто на ритм. Я предполагаю, что вы установили грабли в соответствии с планом лодки с помощью мерной палочки или рулетки. Наша цель - установить грот так, чтобы верхняя рейка была параллельна центральной линии стрелы, отрегулировав ахтерштаг и гидроцилиндр мачты. После установки не должно быть необходимости в изменении диапазона ветра, кроме 1 мм регулировки ахтерштага. На недавней встрече с Брэдом Гибсоном для Central Park MYG в США Брэд говорил о регулировке ахтерштага на плюс или минус 2 мм. Не знаю, как вы, но в прошлом я был немного более агрессивен в использовании ахтерштага. Теперь я лучше понимаю точность настройки и знаю, что делают лучшие ребята, я более осторожен. Если вам повезет, если вы все это проделали, у вас будет идеально выглядящая оснастка, а если вы не переборщили с натяжением кожуха, оснастка будет работать на вас при порывах ветра. В сети доступно достаточно информации о настройке оснастки, чтобы вы смогли получить правильную настройку с первого раза и, что более важно, воссоздавать эту настройку каждый раз, когда вы отправляетесь в плавание. Вот несколько изображений, показывающих влияние изменений на 1 мм на ахтерштаг буровой установки B. Начать снизу Начните снизу и проработайте набор картинок. Они показывают предварительный изгиб, встроенный в мачту, а затем постепенное воздействие до 5 мм дополнительной задней распорки. Вы можете лучше всего увидеть эффект смягчения выщелачивания. Попробуйте это на своей лодке и посмотрите, как выглядит ваша оснастка. Не обращайте внимания на установку гуська, так как задвижка слишком тугая, и стрелу можно немного ослабить. В следующий раз, когда я попробую это сделать, я установлю камеру на штатив, чтобы угол между снимками не менялся. Завтра получу аналогичный набор снимков для буровой установки А. Установка буровой установки - воздействие 5 мм на буровую установку A Просто небольшой пост, чтобы отразить мои эксперименты с оснасткой A и мысли о настройках для различных условий ветра и чопов. Смотрите фото ниже. Конечно, на ветру внешний вид паруса будет немного другим. Буровая установка с глубиной фута 15 мм и прямой мачтой. Настройка для неспокойной воды. Будет потеря поворота при легком ветру для ускорения на волнах На рисунке показано, как начать с прямой мачты, как влияет добавление 5 мм к задней опоре на буровой установке A. Более 10 мм ахтерштаг вызывают деформацию паруса. Next Section Weigh and check measure

After 6 months experimenting, I think I am now at my final configuration which allows me to sail with the main boom parallel on all rigs. Through my whole dinghy sailing career I wanted to sail with the main boom parallel to the deck. It looks right and usually fast. Mast rake is up to 2 degrees and my challenge was getting a fin in the right position to work with this rig. The goal was to sail with a perfectly balanced boat with a hint of lee helm so when I am looking for wind shifts, the boat is sailing as fast as it can upwind. With the previous weather helm I had tended to lose speed when I looked up the course. I am using a Craig Smith fin with a Robot bulb. Fin Leading edge of top of fin to line perpendicular from bow (excluding the bumper). 500mm (measured parallel to the waterline). I have since moved this to 515mm (23/11/2024) to try and get the boat to drive off the jib instead of trying to luff up all the time. Fin leading edge is exactly 88 degrees (now 90 degrees as I moved the top of the fin back) to waterline (tiny rake) I had got this to vertical but the boat was not quite balanced right. Bulb angle to waterline 2 degrees. Bottom of bulb is 2mm above max draft Hull to top of bulb down leading edge of fin. 330mm Bow to tip of fin where it enters bulb 640mm. C of G of bulb is 5mm forward of leading edge of fin Fin weight. I can't give you the exact weight but it is lighter than anything I have seen. Rudder Depth of rudder 220. Very thin chord but no experience of stalling. I have since tried this down. Shortened the rudder by 15mm and trimmed 5mm off the back Rig Top of boom band to step 135mm A rig mast rake 1040 (bow behind bumper to 900 mm mark on mast measured from top of foredeck.) My next step is to work up a set of sails for open water. More on that as the summer progresses assuming we eventually get summer weather. In the build up to the worlds I settled on Sailboat RC sails and went for the max depth A Rig sails which I have to say have delivered good speed. I change the mast prebend a little bit and moved it further down the mast which made a significant difference in mast stiffness to the point I had to rake the spreaders back a few degrees more. The blog covers events at the worlds The only niggle with the boat this year was i the fin is still too far forward as I still get occasional weather helm and this can slow the boat in waves in a breeze so I am working on moving the top back (See above comments in brackets) but leaving the bulb in the same position

Weighing and check measuring the IOM Взвесьте и проверьте, измерьте лодку Взвесьте лодку с помощью оснастки А со всем оборудованием, как будто собираетесь плыть на палубе. патчи свободно лежал на лодка. Он должен весить 4 кг. Ознакомьтесь с правилами класса и проверьте размер лодки. Setting the boat to float on its lines What you need to know Bring your fully rigged boat up to weight with correctors Float the boat on a calm day on a fish pond, pond, or deep bath and set correctors to put boat on its lines Check measure against class rules The process Weigh and check measure Weight the fully rigged boat dry. Add two equal weight correctors on either side of the fin box at its centre to make up the weight of the boat to 4 kg . Float the boat and check to see it sits on its lines. You may have to adjust the position of the correctors. Once the boat is on its lines, mark and bond the lead corrector in with silicon sealer. I have heard that some people put a small amount of lead in the radio pot so they can make adjustments to the corrector weight if they change a fitting. Pull a copy of the class rules from the HERE Check measure as much as you can. The one measurement you may have difficulty is with the overall length and depth from water line to bottom of fin. This is done in a special tank. Click here for Measurement and Certification Procedure Thought for the day - Getting the most out of correctors Given that we spend a lot of effort getting grams of weight off the foredeck and the mast to reduce pitching moment in a chop, I started thinking about how best to build the correctors. I am looking at roughly 400 gms of lead which I want as close to the centre of the boat fore and aft, but also as low down as possible. I looked at buying lumps of lead but ended up buying lead shot which I could fashion into shape with epoxy. My goal is to make correctors as flat as possible so they sit in the bottom of the boat. The picture shows crudely the difference flat correctors might make. Small I grant but a difference none the less. The top image shows the impact of square lumps of lead at the fin box when the boat is heeled over. The bottom picture show a flattened corrector. The arrows represent the centre of mass for each corrector. The flattened version has a centre of mass lower than the square corrector and in theory when the boat is at an angle the flattened corrector provides more righting moment. All these weight changes I have made, are small. 11gms out of the jib boom, 30gms out of the mast and main boom, 200gms out of the hull of the boat, bigger and lower correctors. It all adds up to more righting moment and less pitching moment. There is easy access to the base of the fin box if you take the winch down. It was easy to lay in two strips of velcro on each side of the hull and place the correctors on this. So now they are fixed but moveable. Once you identify the correct balance point you can fix the correctors in permanently. Moulding the correctors using epoxy and lead shot which you can get off eBay. Means you can shape your correctors anyway you like Настройка лодки на плавание по тросам Что вам нужно знать Увеличьте вес вашей полностью оснащенной лодки с помощью корректоров. Поплавайте на лодке в безветренный день по пруду с рыбой, пруду или глубокой ванне и установите корректоры, чтобы натянуть лодку на шнуры. Проверить меру на соответствие правилам класса Процесс Взвесьте и проверьте меру Взвесьте полностью оборудованную лодку насухо. Добавьте два одинаковых корректора веса с каждой стороны кюветы по центру, чтобы компенсировать вес лодки. до 4 кг. Поднимите лодку и проверьте, сидит ли она на своих тросах. Возможно, вам придется отрегулировать положение корректоров. Как только лодка окажется на линии, отметьте и приклейте свинцовый корректор силиконовым герметиком. Я слышал, что некоторые люди кладут небольшое количество свинца в горшок с радиоприемником, чтобы можно было отрегулировать вес корректора, если они меняют фитинг. Вытащите копию правил класса ЗДЕСЬ Проверьте, отмерьте как можно больше. У вас могут возникнуть трудности с измерением общей длины и глубины от ватерлинии до нижней части плавника. Это делается в специальной емкости. Щелкните здесь, чтобы узнать о процедуре измерения и сертификации. Мысль на день - как использовать корректоры по максимуму Учитывая, что мы тратим много усилий на снятие граммов веса с носовой части и мачты, чтобы уменьшить килевой момент в рубке, я начал думать о том, как лучше построить корректоры. Я ищу примерно 400 граммов свинца, которые мне нужны как можно ближе к центру лодки на носу и корме, но и как можно ниже. Я смотрел на покупку кусков свинца, но в итоге купил свинцовую дробь, которой можно было придать форму с помощью эпоксидной смолы. Моя цель - сделать корректоры как можно более плоскими, чтобы они располагались на дне лодки. На рисунке грубо показано, какое влияние могут иметь плоские корректоры. Я допускаю небольшую, но все же разница. На верхнем изображении показано воздействие квадратных кусков свинца на корпус плавника при опрокидывании лодки. На нижнем рисунке показан сплюснутый корректор. Стрелки обозначают центр масс каждого корректора. У плоской версии центр масс ниже, чем у квадратного корректора, и теоретически, когда лодка находится под углом, плоский корректор обеспечивает больший восстанавливающий момент. Все эти изменения, которые я сделал, небольшие. 11 г из гуська, 30 г из мачты и основной стрелы, 200 г из корпуса лодки, больший и нижний корректоры. Все это дает больше восстанавливающего момента и меньше момента качки. Если вы опустите лебедку, то получите легкий доступ к основанию плавниковой коробки. Было легко уложить две полосы липучки с каждой стороны корпуса и разместить на них корректоры. Так что теперь они фиксированные, но подвижные. Формование корректоров с использованием эпоксидной смолы и свинцовой дроби, которые можно купить на eBay. Означает, что вы можете формировать корректоры так, как вам нравится. Подумал на день - Установить корректоры. Если вы опустите лебедку, то получите легкий доступ к основанию плавниковой коробки. Было легко уложить две полосы липучки с каждой стороны корпуса и разместить на них корректоры. Так что теперь они фиксированные, но подвижные. Формование корректоров с использованием эпоксидной смолы и свинцовой дроби, которые можно купить на eBay. Значит, вы можете формировать корректоры как хотите. Последние вакансии перед запуском Лодка полностью укомплектована, все три оснастки настроены с помощью измерительной рейки и начальных настроек, отмеченных в моем контрольном списке. Передатчик радиоуправления был проверен изнутри, чтобы убедиться, что провода не касаются стабилизаторов шкотов и рулей руля. Любой контакт может вызвать очень странное случайное поведение подвесов. Настройки радио на передатчике указаны в контрольном списке. Вес лодки был проверен на всех трех установках и корректорах, установленных на буровых установках B и C. Это были вставки для мачты 10 г, которые я купил у Sailsetc. Поскольку я сэкономил 20 граммов на установке A, я могу использовать на 20 граммов меньше корректоров на установке B и C. Я также обмотал мачту на уровне нижней палубы лентой, чтобы предотвратить любое движение вбок, а также добавил измененную форму пятки, чтобы мачта не вращалась, чтобы распорки не выходили из выравнивания при спуске с мачты. См. Нижнюю картинку. Общий вес лодки с каждой оснасткой составляет 4004-6 граммов. 3 заплатки на колоде уже готовы, так что она готова к своему первому выходу в понедельник, который является моим днем рождения. Отличное время для того, чтобы разбрызгать лодку. Следующие шаги состоят в том, чтобы составить программу тренировок и парусного спорта для подготовки к национальным соревнованиям и любым индикаторным событиям. Пару фоток ниже.

Craig Richards Tuning guide (Page 1) My Thanks to Craig Richards to allow me to copy his guide that he posted on facebook following his win at the 2023 Global Championships at Fleetwood . Mainsheet bridle: The mainsheet bridal is not your friend. It can burn out winches if incorrectly set and if that does not spoil your race then it has sneaky ways of snagging your mainsheet, which it will always do at the bottom mark when you are in the lead! I think I had one of the loosest mainsheet bridle setups at the Globals. I will show detail later of what the bridal looks like with each of the rigs, but its not something I adjust. It stays the same for all rigs. Mine looks like this: The first snag is probably only on the older boats. The bridle eyes were originally a bit larger and not always screwed all the way into the hull. Because they stood slightly proud, the mainsheet could loop around them and snag. This could be fixed by tacking away if lucky, but often the boat will stall head to wind and it is very difficult to recover from quickly. If you don't realise what has happened and continue to sheet in and hope for the best, the winch is stalled and may overheat etc. The fix is to screw them in all the way and fill the recess with epoxy glue. This is about as close as I will ever sheet in. There is never less than about 5mm between the bridle eye and the boom fitting. The starboard bridle line is slack, so this is as high as you can get the bridle eye off the deck. There is almost no vertical mainsheet tension so the winch has very little load and fine adjustments to the sheeting angle are possible without affecting the mainsails leech tension. The port bowsie should be hard against the deck eye, but I mucked with it for demo purposes and have not fixed to my preference yet. With a straight run for the jib sheet, it can get a bit snagged against the mast. Yes, jib fairlead is glued as well. I'll do a section on each rig, but the further forward you move the jib boom sheeting eye the further the jib will go out on the run. I've set mine so that both the main and jib reach 90 degrees at the same time on the runs Sheeting: This is how I run my sheets. It's not optimum from a friction point of view, but there is a tradeoff between reliability and the jib setting slightly differently on port and starboard tacks. If I only use the front jib sheeting deck eye then the jib boom goes slightly further out on the starboard side. It's a small amount, which is reduced by going through both eyes ... at least I think it does. I put the jib sheet through the port bridle deck eye to keep it away from the mast. In light conditions the thin yellow line (0.20mm) gets snagged between the boom gooseneck and the deck. It's only slightly sticky, but enough to stop the jib going out on the runs occasionally. Its not necessary for stronger conditions, but I stick to one way of routing all my sheets just to keep life simple. The A rig: I'll be posting some measurements, so just want to show what my masthead crane looks like as some of them sit a bit proud of the plastic mast insert. I think the standard sail templates have too much luff curve. I have a 'custom' luff curve from Catsails that has about 2mm less mid mast. I run the top of the sail at the bottom of the silver band and the attachment point to a second hole in the mast crane. I think the top of the sail behaves better with this setup. I run the mast gate as far back as possible and never touch it. It stays like this for all rigs. The DF seems to want as much aft rake as possible. So I rake it as far as it will go. I would rather take luff curve out of the front of the sail than bend the mast further. Too much mast bend means you need more vang on the beat, but this can lead to too tight a mainsail leech on the runs Mast Rake: With no Jib Forestay tension I want the mast curve to match the front of the main sail as far as possible. The curve I settled on was to tighten the backstay until the second attachment point from the bottom was just behind the mast (NB, remember I have about 2mm less luff curve than standard). This was easily repeatable without needing rulers etc. I then marked the backstay adjustment lines and always adjust straight to this point. I never change the backstay again except at the very top of A rig I might add a mm or two. The measurement from behind the bow bumper to the front hole in the masthead crane is 1140mm. This may seem further back than the rigging guides, but remember there is no forestay tension at this point. With a flat edge behind the mast, the mast curve is only 3-4mm, which is less than I was expecting.

How I built a male plug Собери вилку Процесс самый лучший объяснил Брэд Гибсон в своем видео Постройте заглушку корпуса но есть некоторые нюансы, о которых я расскажу ниже: Щелкните любое изображение, чтобы увеличить изображение. 1 Build the styrofoam hull What you need A measured 1.1m flat board to lay the styrofoam frames onto. 2 off 600x600x100mm sheets of styrofoam. Ebay shop UHU POR glue to stick paper onto styrofoam. Amazon Hot wire cutter. Amazon Balsa wood planks for sanding the styrofoam 300*50*3mm and 400*20*5. EBay shop Builders square 600mm rule 5 minute epoxy to stick foam frames together. East Coast Fibreglass Sandpaper - Dry, various grades, course to fine, wet and dry 150 down to 2500 Epoxy resin - slow cure gives about 30mins of work time Glass to cover foam - 2 layers of 135 E cloth and 1 layer of 125 S cloth as the outer skin. East Coast Fibreglass Epoxy micro balloons for filling and for use later on. East Coast Fibreglass 2 pack high build epoxy primer. SML Paints The process The Foam Plug Mark up the board with a centreline and 100mm frame positions and a 50mm and 38mm mm frame positions according to the plan. Mark as accurately as possible and use the builders square to mark the frame lines. Print all the frames onto coloured card and cut out each frame. R ed or black provides good contrast to blue Styrofoam. The colour becomes relevant later. 6 Cut out the red paper frames with a stencil knife. Remember that the plan lines will mark the outside of the hull. You need to account for the thickness of the surface of the plug and the skin of the hull, so I cut the frames two mm inside the plan line and stick to the styrofoam with UHU Por. Cut the centre of the frame out so the epoxy can bond the foam together for a strong plug. Only glue round the edges of the card and avoid putting any glue in the deck area of the frame. Once the frame is stuck on the foam, cut a very narrow slit marking the deck about 2mm wide. The use of the slit will become obvious when you sand in the area of the deck as the gap in the red paper will indicate you are nearly at deck level. When it comes to cutting out the frames on the foam block Bear in mind when cutting out your frame, frame 5 is the largest. When cutting the stern frame, mark an outline for frame 2 and cut that out. Do the same for each frame until the central frame 5 and then do the same form the bow back to frame 5. Do this otherwise you will end up with steps rather than a fair hull. Cut out the frames using a wire cutter. As mentioned above, mark out the next largest frame and cut out. I wedged my wire cutter into a wooden board so I could get a vertical cut all the time. Practice with some samples first to judge how fast you can cut. It is a smelly process so cut the foam out doors. See image 5 above. Carefully cut out the centre of the red card hull frame and a narrow slot on the deck line to help when finding the deck during sanding. To cut the 50mm and 38mm slices I marked a line on my board, held a straight piece of wood on the board and used that as a guide to get the right thickness of frame. When you add all the frames together they should give you a length of 988mm. However, because you have added glue and card to the foam frame the width of the frame will be slightly more so sand down now side of each frame by about a mm until the width is correct. I only found out about this after I had glued all the frames together and ended up with a 1m boat before the bow bumper was fitted. Starting at frame 5 in the middle, glue the frames to the board and themselves, 1 at a time using 5 min epoxy. Remove excess styrofoam with the hot wire and sand coarsely into shape as you go along. Only stick the styrofoam with the epoxy. Only sand with a sanding board and always down the length of the hull to start the fairing process. Once all the frames are in place, bring the surface down with coarse paper until you start to see evidence of the red card. At this point move to the lighter sandpaper and carefully sand until all the red card is just exposed. If you have been patient the hull should be perfectly fair and true. I was amazed at the end result. Use a saw and remove the hull from the build board. Start at the stern and keep the cut well clear of the rising deck. Be careful with the plug as the foam will damage easily. Once removed I supported the hull with bubble wrap. Sand down the deck in the same way as the hull. Sand the radius edges on the corner of the deck as per the plan. The Foredeck Prepare the foredeck frames as before. 15 Glue the frames together on the deck and chamfer the edges slightly to get a tight fit. Protect the hull with cling film so as not to glue the foredeck to the hull at this stage. Glue onto the hull and sand to final finish. Fill any gaps with 5 min epoxy and micro balloon filler. Sand very carefully to finish. Add a post for handling the plug and keep it a max of 50mm from the foredeck. Epoxy and glass the hull Rough cut 3 layers of 4-5oz glass e cloth to wrap completely around the plug. Draw a line along along the keel line on the foam plug and the cloth so you can align the cloth exactly. Support hull post in work bench and apply 3 layers of to 4 -5 oz glass and epoxy resin to hull and decks. Use peel ply as a final layer. Take care with corners and ends to make sure there are no air bubbles. For each layer I apply the glass and epoxy to the hull and then turned the plug over and did the deck. I applied 1 layer after the other until all three are complete. On my second build I left each layer 45 minutes to cure which made it easier putting the next layer on. Paint the plug in epoxy and add the first layer. Use a roller to remove air bubbles and saturate the cloth. Once the first layer is on, carefully paint on more epoxy and add the second layer. Repeat for the third layer. Once you are happy with the result, wrap the hull tightly in peel ply, which will absorb any excess epoxy and prevent an amine finish. Images 19-21. When working with epoxy, make sure you are in a well ventilated area, you are wearing nitril glove and preferably glasses or safety glasses in the event of flicking epoxy in your eyes. Epoxy will start to go stringy after half an hour or so. When it does, throw away what's left, clean tools and gloves with acetone, reload with fresh epoxy and continue the layup. The temperature during layup must be 10 degrees or higher and ideally cure at room temperature or higher. Remove the peel ply and immediately add 2 coats of high build epoxy primer. This will look really ugly but once sanded with wet and dry and polished with t-cut, you will have a beautiful plug on which to mould your hull. Finally apply at least 6 coats of release wax in preparation for laying up the hull. Next Section First Alternative Build

A directory of associations, boat builders, sail makers, fitting suppliers, building, tuning and racing tip sites. The Marblehead Project Here is the story of my entry into the world of Marbleheads.

Asembling the rig Initial thoughts on rigs Note This was my first attempt at building a rig. Current rigs are much simpler) For some time now, I have considered which rig to buy. Here are my current thoughts and decisions on a rig for the new boat. Masts There are 3 tubes and one slotted design to choose from as far as I am aware. Sailsetc groovy and tube, Housemartin tube and Pierre Gonnet tube. I currently have Housemartin spars and sails and am very pleased with their performance. I bought an A, B and C rig kit last year and they were all competitive however I read that the PG masts are lighter with similar flexibility and having sailed yachts, know that weight aloft can make all the difference in a chop, so I am going to try some and compare weights and stiffness and see how they perform. After a chat with Potter Solutions, we decided that 15mm or less is the optimum pre-bend for the A rig. Any more and you can easily distort the spar by compressing the mast as you take out the prebend with the back stay, as well as introduce uncontrolled bend between the spreaders and hounds and introducing too much tension in light weather. I must admit I have always suffered from a little bit of luff starvation just below the hound and wondered if this was caused by the pre-bend. Booms I choose lightweight jib booms (Easton arrow shaft - 2515. 25/64ths inch diameter, 15 thousandths of an inch wall thickness) from Sailsetc having used one before and will use off cuts of the mast for main boom and reuse my current goosenecks and fittings. Again the thought here is to go for the lightest section on the bow requiring the lightest counterweight although we are only talking about 7gms. Fittings I use a roller bearing gooseneck for the A rig and standard gooseneck for B and C. I use aero-foiled spreaders but they are hung on wire so easily adjustable. Shrouds run through a hole in the front of the mast with a bowsie stopper inside. I use a sailsetc cunningham ring on all spars as my Housemartin sails have both luff tension and cunningham eye. Sails As I mentioned above, I use Housemartin sails and have just bought a new A set for this year. Competition wise I see that BG and Sailboat RC (current world champions) with their moulded sail seem to be the sails of choice for championships but that could just be the sailors who use them. Thankfully I see members at Emsworth who have both sails so will be able to make a good comparison between all three. Of course there are several other sailmakers but these are the three World championship winning brands that have caught my eye from the available data at the moment, however I am new to the game and have probably missed lots. What's the best package overall Current observation suggests a SailboatRC package as they have won the last two worlds and dominated other events but Britpop with the BG rig have dominated in numbers and successes since 2011. Who will dominate at the Worlds in Croatia next year? SailboatRC are pioneered moulded sails and now have a tried and tested design and who knows what else they have on the cards. I look forward to see how other sail designers and builders respond. Jib Geometry. It's all in the geometry. How many of you have the problem of the jib boom flicking out one side or the other in calm conditions, making it impossible to sail. I have encountered this problem since I launched my first boat boat. It was only in a discussion with Dave Potter last week that I found the solution. It's all in the geometry. See the picture below. The diagram on the right has two diagrams. The left shows the configuration I used last year. My leech line had caught around the spreaders a few times I thought it best to use a line and tie it forward at the head of the jib not realising that this impacts the geometry and caused the boom to kick out one way or the other when there is little or no wind. If you want to see this in action, set the headsail up loosen your current leech line and tie a loose leach line onto the end of the jib boom. Make sure the line is long enough to reach the entry point on the mast. Put the luff and leach line under some tension. First move the top of the leech line to the right of the mast (i.e. aft) by an inch or so as set up in the picture and you should see the jib boom pull into the centreline of the boat. Now move the leech line in the opposite direction, forward of the mast and you should see the jib boom move as far away from the centreline as it can. Talking to Dave Potter, he told me that he and Deve Creed solved the problem by tying the jib luff and leech line to a self tapping screw thus ensuring the leech line and jib luff tension line intersect the mast at exactly the same point allowing the jib boom to rotate freely in any direction I pondered this for a while and came up with another solution using wire and a bowsie. The wire leech line and jib luff eye are attached to a bowsie inside the mast. They exit the mast and the jib luff can be hooked onto an eye fashioned out of the wire. Both enter the mast at the same point setting up the correct geometry. Fingers crossed this will mean the jib boom will swing easily from one side to the other in calm conditions. I will let you know at the end of the week if it works Первые мысли о буровых установках Некоторое время я думал, какую установку купить. Вот мои текущие мысли и решения относительно оснастки для новой лодки. Мачты Насколько мне известно, на выбор есть 3 трубки и одна конструкция с прорезями. Sailsetc groovy и tube, трубка Housemartin и трубка Pierre Gonnet. В настоящее время у меня есть лонжероны и паруса Housemartin, и я очень доволен их работой. В прошлом году я купил комплект оснастки A, B и C, и все они были конкурентоспособными, однако я читал, что мачты PG легче с аналогичной гибкостью, и, когда я ходил на яхтах, я знаю, что вес на высоте может иметь большое значение в чопе, так что я собираюсь попробовать, сравнить вес и жесткость и посмотреть, как они работают. После разговора с Potter Solutions мы решили, что 15 мм или меньше - это оптимальный предварительный изгиб для установки A. Еще больше, и вы можете легко деформировать лонжерон, сжимая мачту, когда вы снимаете предварительный изгиб с помощью заднего упора, а также вносите неконтролируемый изгиб между распорками и бортиками и вводите слишком большое напряжение в светлую погоду. Должен признать, что я всегда страдал от небольшого голодания передней шкаторины чуть ниже собаки и задавался вопросом, было ли это вызвано предварительным изгибом. Бум Я выбираю легкие гуськи (стрелка Easton - 2515. Диаметр 25/64 дюйма, толщина стенки 15 тысячных дюйма) от Sailsetc, использовав одну из них раньше, и буду использовать обрезки мачты для основной стрелы и повторно использовать мои нынешние гусиные шеи и фитинги. . И снова идея состоит в том, чтобы выбрать самую легкую часть лука, требующую легчайшего противовеса. Арматура Я использую гусиная шея на роликовом подшипнике для установки A и стандартная гусиная шея для B и C. Я использую расширители с аэродинамической фольгой, но они подвешены на проволоке, поэтому их легко регулировать. Ванты проходят через отверстие в передней части мачты с заглушкой внутри. Я использую кольцо sailsetc Cunningham на всех лонжеронах, так как мои паруса Housemartin имеют как натяжение передней передней шкаторины, так и глаз каннингема. Паруса Как я уже упоминал выше, я использую паруса Housemartin и только что купил новый набор для этого года. Что касается соревнований, я вижу, что BG и Sailboat RC (действующие чемпионы мира) с их формованными парусами кажутся предпочтительными парусами для чемпионатов, но это могут быть только моряки, которые их используют. К счастью, я вижу участников в Emsworth, у которых есть оба паруса, так что они смогут провести хорошее сравнение между всеми тремя. Конечно, есть несколько других производителей парусного спорта, но это три бренда, выигравшие чемпионаты мира, которые привлекли мое внимание по имеющимся данным на данный момент, однако я новичок в этой игре и, вероятно, пропустил многое. Какой в целом лучший пакет Текущие наблюдения предполагают пакет SailboatRC, поскольку они выиграли два последних мира и доминировали на других соревнованиях, но бритпоп с буровой установкой BG доминировал по количеству и успехам с 2011 года. Кто будет доминировать на чемпионате мира в Хорватии в следующем году? SailboatRC - это первые формованные паруса, у которых теперь проверенная конструкция, и кто знает, что еще у них есть на картах. Я с нетерпением жду реакции других дизайнеров и строителей парусов. Геометрия стрелы. Все дело в геометрии. У многих из вас есть проблема, что гик стрелы вылетает в одну или другую сторону в штиль, что делает невозможным плавание. Я столкнулся с этой проблемой с тех пор, как спустил на воду свою первую лодку. Только в ходе беседы с Дэйвом Поттером на прошлой неделе я нашел решение. Все дело в геометрии. См. Картинку ниже. На диаграмме справа две диаграммы. Слева показана конфигурация, которую я использовал в прошлом году. Моя леска зацеплялась за разбрасыватели несколько раз, и я подумал, что лучше использовать стропу и привязать ее вперед к головке гуська, не понимая, что это влияет на геометрию и приводит к тому, что штанга выскакивает в ту или иную сторону, когда есть слабый ветер или его нет. Если вы хотите увидеть это в действии, установите поднятый передний парус, ослабьте имеющуюся у вас заднюю шнуру и привяжите свободную линию выщелачивания к концу гуська стрелы. Убедитесь, что леска достаточно длинная, чтобы добраться до точки входа на мачте. Натяните переднюю шкаторину и линию выщелачивания. Сначала переместите верхнюю часть лески вправо от мачты (то есть на корму) на дюйм или около того, как показано на рисунке, и вы должны увидеть, как удлинитель стрелы втягивается в осевую линию лодки. Теперь переместите линию задней оси в противоположном направлении, вперед от мачты, и вы должны увидеть, как удлинитель стрелы отодвигается как можно дальше от осевой линии. Разговаривая с Дэйвом Поттером, он сказал мне, что он и Деве Крид решили проблему, привязав переднюю шкатулку гуська к саморезу, таким образом обеспечив, чтобы линия задней шкаторины и линия натяжения передней шкаторины пересекали мачту точно в той же точке, что и гуськ. стрела свободно вращается в любом направлении Я немного подумал и придумал другое решение, используя проволоку и бантик. Трос задней шкаторины и проушина гуська прикреплены к лонжерону внутри мачты. Они выходят из мачты, а шкатулка гуська может быть зацеплена за проушину, сделанную из троса. Оба входят в мачту в одной и той же точке, обеспечивая правильную геометрию. Скрестив пальцы, это означает, что укосина будет легко качаться из одной стороны в другую в спокойных условиях. Я дам вам знать в конце недели, если это сработает Еще мысли о ригах Ключ к настройке - добиться, чтобы изгиб мачты соответствовал кривой основной шкаторины. Если вы прочитаете статьи Брэда Гибсона о настройке и посмотрите последние интервью с New York Central Park MYC, то вы услышите, насколько точна его настройка. 1 Каннингем не используется в больших количествах. 2 Его паруса очень гладкие 3 Основная опора устанавливается на одинаковую глубину для всех условий 4 Ахтерштаг можно отрегулировать на 2–4 мм только в зависимости от условий. 5 Он следует своим собственным измерениям для стартовой установки. Главное здесь - иметь фиксированную настройку. BG участвует в этой игре уже давно и знает точные настройки, необходимые для быстрой игры. Мы можем сократить процесс обучения, следуя инструкциям по настройке на его веб-сайте или от дизайнера любой лодки, на которой вы плывете. У Kantun есть аналогичный набор номеров установки и инструкций от конструктора, которые поставляются вместе с их лодками. Другие дизайнеры сделали то же самое. Помните, если, когда ваша лодка находится на боку, у вас есть проблемы с твердыми пятнами на передней шкаторине грот, которые необходимо удалить чрезмерным каннингемом, тогда вам нужно будет настроить доступные вам переменные, чтобы избавиться от твердых участков. Они есть: Мачта вертикальная Угол разбрасывателя (и убедитесь, что они симметричны, т. Е. Ваша мачта не вращалась) Мачтовый таран Напряжение кожуха Смягчите или отвердите предварительный изгиб Если проблема не исчезла, убедитесь, что мачта находится прямо до точки предварительного изгиба, ваш предварительный изгиб является прогрессивным, а не внезапным. Конечно, если у вас старые паруса, они могли растянуться и добиться идеального результата будет сложно. Я покажу вам свою настройку ниже. У меня будет установка PG от Potter Solutions с парусами Housemartin. Настройки сами знаете откуда. У вас может сложиться впечатление, что я фанат BG. Это потому, что он собрал всю необходимую информацию о настройке на своем веб-сайте, и это лучшее, что я видел в своих путешествиях по Интернету, но похожее на Kantun. У него также есть самый близкий дизайн к доступному BritPOP (альтернатива) для домашней сборки, который у меня есть. Для тех, кто интересуется разницей в весе мачты, разница между Housemartin и PG-лонжероном составляет 20 г. Я слышал, что Sailsetc находится где-то посередине. Вес был 99 и 79 граммов. Я не проводил измерения жесткости, но уверен, что кто-то там сделал. Они оба чувствуют себя неплохо. Предварительный изгиб составляет 15 мм на 600 мм на установке A и 40 мм на установке B с установкой C. Буровая установка A и B прибыла с четкой меткой на каждой, показывающей точную точку начала предварительного изгиба. Сделав разметку по размерам с плана лодки, я положил мачту на длинный стол. Используйте пару розовых блоков от sailsetc (см. Рисунок) или что-то подобное, чтобы убедиться, что отверстия находятся в правильном положении. Для начала я установил один из розовых блоков и выровнял мачту так, чтобы предварительный изгиб располагался строго вертикально над столом. Затем я мог бы просверлить отверстие в форшлаге и выровнять все по нему, зная, что каждое отверстие будет выровнено вперед и назад или перпендикулярно в случае расширителей. Гусиная шея наклеивается суперклеем перед сверлением и закрепляется с помощью купе квадратов материала заплатки палубы под нижней частью гусиной шеи. Стреле просто необходимо просверлить так же, как описано выше. Используя розовые блоки сверла, совместите предварительный изгиб с отверстиями для гуська, кожухов, расширителей и гусиной шеи. Мысль на день - Доделать буровые установки Все, что осталось, это отрезать мачту нужной длины, подогнать к лодке, добавить ахтерштаг и кливер, а затем закончить концы вантов. Чтобы отрезать мачту до нужной длины, я использовал трубку-заглушку, вставленную в отверстие мачты и отметив нижний и верхний уровни палубы, а также положение, в котором я хотел установить гусиную шею и нижнюю ограничительную ленту. Он должен быть не менее чем на 60 мм выше уровня нижней палубы, но в альтернативном варианте он составляет примерно 74 мм. Затем я просто измеряю расстояние от нижнего предела на реальной мачте до низа с помощью манекена мачты и разрезаю. Супер приклеил головку мачты и пяточный фитинг (после того, как мачта была обрезана до нужной длины), чтобы они не двигались. Затем я установил мачту в лодку, прикрепил удлинитель и ахтерштаг и поставил мачту прямо на грабли на плане. После я прикрепил фурнитуру к концам вантов и закрепил такелажные винты на лодке. Буровая установка была слегка натянута, поэтому можно было смонтировать основную и настроить буровую установку. Последняя задача - найти способ остановить случайное вращение мачты. Совет - используйте гибкую шею. К сожалению, гусиная шея, которую я использую, не совсем фиксирует мачту на месте, поэтому мне придется найти другое решение. Я отрезал дюйм секции мачты, а затем разрежьте его пополам и прикрепите к нижней части мачты двумя толстыми стяжками, чтобы предотвратить сжатие скотча на секции. Таким образом, я фиксирую мачту по центру, а также слегка подталкиваю ее вперед в ступеньке мачты, что дает лодке лучший баланс. Ниже приведены несколько фотографий готовой установки B. Обратите внимание, что я больше не использую кабельную стяжку в качестве стержня гуська, так как они все время ломались, поэтому я заменил ее зажимом стрелы Sailsetc и прикрепил трос к стреле с помощью крюка для листов. Теперь я могу поднимать и опускать удлинитель стрелы. Picture showing roller bearing gooseneck with jackstay line and tape to secure mast at deck and step level Airofoil spreaders. I have reverted back to brass tube (bought off Amazon) and make my own using .45mm wire to make the ends. Masthead detail Sideview of roller bearing kicker and cunningham ring above band which I have since discarded A rather ugly solution to the jib attachment to the mast. The principle was the lung and leech line emerge from the same point on the mastI now use a simple wire hook into the mast with both luff and topping lift attached to it. Simple an effective. Sails are tied on with fine thread. Mine comes from a Ford factory from the 70's where it was used to make seats. It does not shrink and I only have 4900 yards left on the spool. Some of my ideas are a bit whacky. I tried attaching the tack line to a cable ties. It lasted an hour before the line cut through the plastic. Now I just tie the cord to the boom First version of a tidy leach line with the elastic inside the boom. The line ran through a hole in the boom but kept fraying. Now I use a Sailsetc boom end fitting which does the job nicely Balast and balancing weights for the boat and B and C rigs Pink alignment blocks for drilling holes on the mast and boom Next Section Add the sails

A directory of associations, boat builders, sail makers, fitting suppliers, building, tuning and racing tip sites. Местоположение некоторых владельцев МОМ по всему миру I love setting these rigs up. How does the GIZMO work. Whilst I am going to play with my rigs for a few months before I start adding complications, I was very interested to see what the GIZMO does by looking at the rig on a new Grunge from Robot Yachts. There are two pictures below showing the sheeting lines for the main and then the jib and I will describe what the GIZMO does to each. Graham Bantock also has a nice plan showing the layout on the Sailsetc web site. The GIZMO lever is clearly visible bolted to the base of the mast on the starboard side. The cord connected to the top end of the Lever is part of the mainsheet. At the top of the mainsheet post are two plastic balls through which the mainsheet is threaded. When you sheet in, the boom is brought in to the distance of the two balls from the mainsheet post so you cannot oversheet. If you did not have a GIZMO the story stops here. But with the GIZMO you sheet in a bit more and you pull the lever in the direction of the mainsheet. There are 3 cords attached to the other end of the lever. 2 to adjust the main and one to adjust the jib. Here are the pictures of the GIZMO sheeting arrangement and a video below of the sheet movement caused by the rotation of the lever Application of the GIZMO lever tightens the leach of the main slightly at the same times as flattening the foot, at the same time as increasing the cunningham, whilst on the jib, the jib boom is pulled down slightly but the clever bit is as the jib boom is pulled down, the leach line is eased to maintain the same leech twist. In addition the jib is sheeted in slightly. So the overall effect of the LAM is to close the main leech, tighten the jib luff and sheet in slightly and I guess you point higher. Here are two videos that show the LAM in action on land. Of course the key to effectively use of the GIZMO is setting up the rig in the first place. Get this wrong and the GIZMO is of no use to you How do you move the GIZMO using the transmitter. You can either set a toggle switch to engage the GIZMO or use the fine adjustment. The only challenge with the fine adjustment is you might forget it is applied or not. My preference would be for the toggle approach as the GIZMO is either on or off. Bear in mind, if the GIZMO is applied with a large amount of movement on the lever there will be a force applied to the winch and this will burn up battery power. What might need doing on my boat. The immediate things on the current rig are to lower the Jib boom to get the jib closer to the deck The first outing against competition at Abbey Meads lake I always thought this would not be an easy entry into the Marblehead class with oldish sails and rig. Today we sailed in near calm conditions and discovered three immediate problems with the swing rig. Firstly it would not swing easily and for the first few races I was sailing downwind with the sails stuck as though on a beat. Second the jib thought it would be fun to maintain a central position in the light breeze and lastly the main remained inverted after a tack if there was little or no wind. When the wind was up, 4 knots or so the boat took off and I could race competitively. As soon as the wind died the boat stopped. I liked it to being in a boxing match with one hand tied behind your back Results were poor and I retired from the first two races as I could not run downwind with the boom out. I can sort the jib out but believe I may need a light wind rig If I am to sail in these conditions competitively. My thanks to Roger an Peter Stollery for organising/setting up and packing up and Hugh McAdoo for acting as race officer. It was a great day with relatively warm sunshine. At home I got my thinking cap on and took a close look at the mast bearings on and under the deck. I removed the additional cord at the bottom bearing and cleaned the bearings adding some PTFE spray which has no residue and will not attract dirt or dust. The mast is now rotating freely. The jib requires a bit more work. Like an IOM I believe a straight boom should sort the problem and will allow me to lower and adjust the jib height a little as well as moving the end point of the jib boom closer to the sheet fairlead which gives more precise sheeting. Here is a picture of the current jib configuration.. I have a couple of bits of IOM spars to play with. I will use a straight piece of 11mm tube as a yard from the gooseneck and use 10mm lightweight jib boom. Without a Gizmo the rigging is so simple and I will continue with the grommet for sheeting until I eventually fit a Gizmo and replace the booms with carbon. The jib clew will be tied down and a bowsie run to the end of the boom to adjust the foot. What I cannot cure is the mainsail inverting when I tack the boat in calm conditions. The cloth is too stiff and there is too much luff curve. I could apply massive prebend but this will tighten the jib luff and reduce the ability for the jib boom to swing freely. The only cure is a lightweight rig. I will save that one for later Another annoying issue is the mainsheet post is glued in. There is a tube that runs from the deck to the floor which fits a Sailsetc mainsheet post nicely. When I drilled it out, there was an inch of a sailsetc mainsheet post and then an inch and a half of another post. Anyway its all out now and I can fit a new post and be able to adjust the height of the post which is key for the B and C rigs as the booms are higher. Finally got round to reprogramming the RMG Smartwinch to increase the range of the sheet movement so I can get the main boom at 90 degrees to the centreline of the boat. Here is the link to the programming guide on RMG Web site As an aside, the boat came with an unused 2018 set of BG sails for the swing rig so I will get them measured and try them out. There are a couple of events in January/february where I can get a better understanding of how the boat goes. Lastly I weighed the various components of the boat to see how I stood against the current thinking. Swing rig 356gm (OK I think as there is no data. Could use lighter cloth) Hull 924gm (Recommended 900 -1000gms. New Pro boats 800-900gms) Fin/bulb 3.618kg (3.2-3.4kg is recommended so I may have the opportuntiy to lose 200gms but I will wait until I have race data before making any adjustments here. Total 4.898kg (recomendation is 4.5 to 4.8 so I am within this range if I lighten the fin Thats it for now. Lots sorted. I guess that is life with a new second hand boat as you work it up for competitive sailing. Waiting for the bits from Sailsetc to complete the changes and then it is off to Chipstead in January. My schedule will be going up on the results page. There are only 12 Marblehead events so progress and learning might be a bit slow.